Our summer seasonal drinking rolls on this week with another simple rum potion dating from the 1700s in Barbados — the Corn ‘n Oil. The drink is an old fashioned template, which gets cloudy amid modern versions that call for a healthy dose of lime juice. If you Google the drink, you’ll find myriad specs that call for lime juice. In its original formulation in Barbados, the drink is just rum, falernum (more on that below), and some Angostura for extra spiciness. 

When modern mixology began to reinvigorate old drinks, the Corn ‘n Oil suddenly received some lime juice. The problem here is that formulation does more than move it away from the original. It also induces a template shift. The original Corn ‘n Oil is, essentially, a spiced old fashioned. Modern versions with larger amounts of lime are essentially spiced daquiris. In other words, they shift the drink from an old fashioned template to a sour template — completely different worlds. The modern versions are spiced daquiris in a rocks glass.

Rums from Barbados blend both Jamaican-style pot still distillation with Spanish-style column still runs. Of course, this brings the best of both worlds. The pot still imparts just a bit of that Hogo or funk you’d find in Jamaican-style rums with the crisp, nuanced spice of Spanish-style column distillation. Foursquare and Mount Gay are standouts. Planteray is also made on Barbados, but has a different, unique aging process.

The subtle spiciness and crisp texture of the Barbados rums allow the Falernum, here filling the role of simple syrup in the old fashioned template, to shine. Falernum is a rum based liqueur (it’s sweet) in which almonds, ginger, clove, and lime oils have been macerated. It derives from the the 18th Century when it was made as a punch (no doubt heavier on the rum than modern formulations). Its birthplace was seemingly Barbados and like most culinary siblings from similar environs, it goes well with the style of rum we find in Barbados. It is one of those liqueurs that are indispensable if you are into tropical or Tiki (caution, these are not the same thing) drinks. Add a more than healthy dose of Angostura bitters, and you have a nicely spiced rum old fashioned.

And on that point, I like a slightly stiffer old fashioned spec. Most recipes call for 2 oz of rum (or any other spirit forming the base). I actually like an extra ½ oz. Falernum takes the place of simple syrup in the template, but its really somewhere between a syrup and liqueur. It’s not alcoholic enough to be a true liqueur, but too boozy to be a syrup. Under the circumstances, I think the extra ½ oz balances the sweetness of the Falernum a bit better. If you like your standard template at 2 oz, I’d pour a heavy ¼ oz. We’ll get to the other debates in the options below. You know what time it is.

This is a stirred cocktail and can be built in the glass. First, chill your rocks glass. Once chilled, retrieve your glass, add the ingredients, and give them a quick stir. Then, add a large berg of ice and stir the drink until well-chilled. The classic drink is made with a coin or lime disc in the same fashion as we did with Ti’ Punch. Ever cautious of being repetitive, We simply use a VERY think sliver of lime perched on the side. Squeeze if you like, but I usually leave it where it is. You can also add it to the potion without squeezing for subtlety. Enjoy!

Glass: Rocks glass. 

So, what do you do if you can’t source Barbados-style rums. My description of the process above hints at the solution. Use a split base of a light Jamaican rum, like Appleton, say 1 oz, combine with 1.5 oz of an aged Spanish-style rum like Bacardi or Flor de Cana. Try this and adjust it based on how much of the Jamaican profile you’d like in the drink. Also, pat yourself on the back, as you’ve sort of Tikified the Corn ‘n Oil by using a split base.

If, like me, you love Rhum Agricoles (e.g., from Martinique, Guadalupe, Hawaii, or Haiti), this would also be a great choice. The grassy flavors will work well with the Falernum. Just know that you’re straying from Corn ‘n Oil’s roots and blurring what the drink really is meant to be. You could also use pebble or shard ice in the drink. If you do, floating the Angostura is a nice touch. Classically, the garnish is a lime disc. You could certainly go old-school.

The one non-negotiable is the Falernum. It’s simply not a Corn ‘n Oil without it. If you can buy John D. Taylor’s Velvet Falernum, there are tons of recipes on the internet for homemade versions. If you choose one of those, they usually come out much more flavorful but also much more opaque or cloudy-looking in the drink. It won’t affect the flavor, but be prepared for the visual.

See you next week at the Appalachian Speakeasy.

This blog is, as ever, an opinionated take on drinks.